Some Fun with Antiquated Hat Terms - Part Three- 1800 - 1900
I have revealed some dark and bizarre words while glancing back at the historical backdrop of caps and hood. Having as of late wrapped up THE PROFESSOR AND THE MADMAN (by Simon Winchester, HarperCollins 1998) about the creation of the Oxford English Dictionary, I figured it may be amusing to investigate the definitions and historical background of a portion of these old terms, a large portion of which have everything except vanished from present day use. [I'll separation this undertaking into three or four sections, so stay tuned.]
To fit the bill for incorporation beneath, the word must appear with a squiggly red line at Microsoft Word's "spell check" device. So here goes:
[Note: As I move into section three of this task, terms become less lost in ancient times. I have incorporated a couple of words, but once in a while utilized today that showed up "spell check".]
Jab Bonnet
Presently hist.
1. A hat with an anticipating overflow, in vogue esp. in the nineteenth penny.
1801 C. DIBDIN Song Smith in Mirth and Meter (1807) 62, I'll hammer out tunes by the fights you don't mind, Short as new-fashion'd sight, or insofar as jab hoods. 1820 F. MACDONOGH Hermit in London V. xcii. 35 Another road annoyance is your jab hat women, who here and there put out your eyes with these confined house projections. 1837 E. BULWER-LYTTON Ernest Maltravers II. IV. vi. 67 A couple of women of center age..wear..straw jab hats. 1858 R. S. SURTEES Ask Mamma ix, [A] lady..painted in one of the old jab hoods of previous days. 1884 Cent. Mag. 28 14 Eight or nine women, men of their word, and kids, in the jab hoods and high-apprehended layers of the year 1839. 1913 W. CATHER O Pioneers! I. I. 12 This city youngster was wearing what was then called the 'Kate Greenaway' manner,..her jab cap, gave her the vibe of an interesting little lady. 1984 P. ALLEN Old Galleries of Cumbria (BNC) 18 Married ladies wore a top, a blue material cover.., neb formed stops up with clasped shoes for better wear, a jab cap and shroud for external wear.
2. spec. A hat of this sort generally worn by ladies individuals from the Religious Society of Friends (Quakers), the Salvation Army, and so forth. Henceforth: a wearer of this sort of hood.
1848 J. R. BARTLETT Dict. Patriotisms s.v., Poke-hat, a long, straight hat, much worn by Quakers and Methodists. 1862 H. MARRYAT One Year in Sweden II. lvi. 264 We ate at a farmhouse.., the property of Anabaptists, an organization generally various in Götland. There's no mixing up the ladies by their depressed looks and dark jab caps. 1877 Sat. Fire up. 12 May 577/2 At Croydon, Dorking, and other most loved frequents of Friends, the..broad-overflowed caps for the men, and close jab caps for the ladies, may in any case be seen. 1899 St. James' Gaz. 17 Aug. 11/2 Never came to by the Church,..or some other otherworldly associations, aside from perhaps the 'jab hats' at the sides of the boulevards. 1902 E. BANKS Autobiogr. Paper Girl 107 The jab hood and dull blue dress, which I figured I would not get until I had put in a couple of days exploring what was the most ideal approach to join the Army. 1945 Musical Q. 31 276 Amish ladies are effectively distinguished by their jab caps, shawls, and a total nonappearance of decoration in their clothing. 2000 Sunday Herald (Glasgow) (Nexis) 14 May 36 A Pennsylvania Amish in a jab cap goes straightaway, cheerful as a bug.
Gibus
f. Gibus the name of the first maker.]
A show or smash cap. Additionally gibus-cap.
1848 THACKERAY Bk. Egotists xviii, With his gibus-cap and his little coated siphons. a1854 E. FORBES Lit. Papers viii. (1855) 214 No man in a gibus ever told open wonder or private regard. 1888 Daily Tel. 28 Apr. 5/2 The collapsible squash cap or Gibus.
[Note from Belinsky: Today a Gibus is all the more regularly known as a "Collapsible Top Hat".]
Riding Casquette
[Fr.; fem. of casquet, diminish. of casque CASQUE.]
A crown looking like a casque.
1840 L. S. COSTELLO Summ. among Bocages II. 206 His in length tresses were bound by an eastern-looking casquette.
[a. F. casque, promotion. Sp. casco in same sense: see CASK n.]
1. A bit of reinforcement to cover the head; a protective cap. A term applied freely to a wide range of military head-pieces, and now just verifiable, poetical, or outside. Once in the past composed CASK.
1580-1649 [see CASK n. 4]. 1696 PHILLIPS, Casque, a head protector. 1714 GAY Trivia III. 363 The fire fighter sweats underneath his abnormal arms, A leathern casque his vent'rous head safeguards. 1791 COWPER Iliad III. 375 They shook them in a shameless casque. 1842 TENNYSON Galahad 1 My great cutting edge cuts the casques of men. 1877 Daily News 24 Dec. 5/4 The miter-like casques of the Pauloff Guard regiment.
Manier Bandeau
[Fr.: OF. bandel, diminish. structure from bande BAND n.2; cf. BANDORE2.]
a. A restricted band or filet worn by ladies to tie the hair, or as a component of a hat. b. A wrap for the eyes.
1706 T. BETTERTON Amorous Widow I. 4 The most attractive Hair, the beautiful'st Curls don't turn into your Forehead, so well as a Bando did. c1790 F. BURNEY Diary (1842) I. 98 (D.) That bandeau..was worn by each lady at court. a1847 MRS. SHERWOOD Lady of Manor III. xxi. 277 Just make up this bandeau for my hair. ?1858 C. MATHEWS Autobiog. (1879) I, In a bound night-top with sky-blue bandeau. 1861 GEN. P. THOMPSON Audi Alt. III. clxi. 175 The Chancellor of the Exchequer, as Paul Louis said of fortune, sees under his bandeau. 1908 [see BARRETTE 2]. 1959 Sunday Times 5 Apr. 22/5 As little as it is conceivable to be and still be known as a cap, a bandeau and bow are trapped in a pen of veiling.
c. A portion of velvet or other material by and large made up in a round structure to be sewed inside the lower some portion of the crown of a cap that is unreasonably huge for the head.
1908 Daily Chron. 29 Jan. 4/7 With the correct kind of 'bandeau'..you need not wear a hatpin by any means.
